Sunday, January 28, 2024

Watch Geek Review: THE MOST EXPENSIVE Chinese Watch I Ever Featured




Today we are reviewing THE MOST EXPENSIVE Chinese watch I ever featured on the channel!! Peacock Black Hole with a central Tourbillon complication, something only a few brands offer and with prices STARTING at $40,000 and way up from there, this Peacock with a pricetag of $3,750 all of the sudden seems affordable, as weird as it may sound.

Powered by their in-house made movement that comes with 120 hours, or 5 days of power reserve and with a very unique way of showing time as well as the overall design, it is an interesting watch, even though the price is hard to swallow.

My favorite part is the sapphire that wraps around the case in the upper half forming a cap.

The watch comes in a luxurious packaging as expected at this pricepoint and on one of the best rubber straps I ever tried.

Even though it is 46mm in diameter it wears more like a 39mm watch as it is a lugless design.


 

Saturday, January 27, 2024

The Peacock Tourbillon

 


The Peacock Tourbillon, introduced in 2003, marked a significant milestone for the brand, adding features such as a calendar, power reserve display, and automatic movement, enhancing its aesthetic appeal and collectible value. A decade later, Peacock developed a proprietary double tourbillon movement with independent intellectual property rights, featuring twin tourbillons positioned at 5 o'clock and 7 o'clock, resembling the large eyes of an owl. Peacock is recognized as one of the few brands globally, alongside Roger Dubuis, capable of producing a double tourbillon watch with this specific placement.

Key characteristics of Peacock Tourbillons include uniqueness, exquisite craftsmanship, skeletonization, and precision:

  1. Uniqueness: Peacock Tourbillons are unique in the field of tourbillons, owing to the brand's self-operated movement factory, a strong R&D team, and the influence of having independent intellectual property rights in the movements.

  2. Exquisite Craftsmanship: These watches emphasize the beauty of "both inside and outside," with meticulously crafted internal components and fashionable, eye-catching external designs.

  3. Skeletonization: Peacock Tourbillons showcase skeletonization, allowing the movement and internal structures to be exposed. This design reveals the unique "rotating escapement speed regulation mechanism," providing a glimpse into the coordination of this mechanism with other components inside the watch.

  4. Precision: Tourbillons were invented to minimize the errors in the "escapement system" of mechanical watches, aiming to improve timekeeping accuracy. Precision is a crucial attribute of Peacock Tourbillons, distinguishing them from other mechanical watches.

Development History:

  • 2003: Development of the first tourbillon movement wristwatch.
  • 2011: Introduction of the proprietary Peacock double tourbillon movement with independent intellectual property rights, featuring twin tourbillons at 5 o'clock and 7 o'clock.
  • 2013: Completion of trial production of five new varieties in the tourbillon series. The SL3001 automatic calendar movement entered mass production, and advancements were made in the chronograph series.
  • 2017: Launch of the Peacock semi-skeletonized carbon double tourbillon movement with intellectual property rights, part of the "CLASSIC Series – Pioneers, Witnesses."

Representative Products:

  1. Peacock Single Tourbillon Wristwatch
  2. Peacock CLASSIC Series Pioneer Wristwatch: The first watch in China to use a carbon fiber case for a tourbillon wristwatch.
  3. Peacock Semi-Skeletonized Carbon Double Tourbillon Wristwatch: Features a proprietary movement with twin tourbillons at 5 o'clock and 7 o'clock, showcasing exquisite craftsmanship.

Peacock has demonstrated its commitment to innovation and craftsmanship in the development of these tourbillon timepieces, contributing to the brand's recognition in the watchmaking industry.

Peacock Movement

 


Peacock Movement refers to the mechanical movements or watch movements produced by Peacock, a Chinese watch brand known for its focus on precision craftsmanship and innovation. These movements are the internal mechanisms that power the watches, consisting of various components like gears, springs, and balance wheels that work together to regulate the timekeeping functions of the watch.

Peacock has a history dating back to 1957 and has become a leading player in the Chinese watch industry, particularly in the manufacturing of high-quality mechanical watch movements. The brand is recognized for its commitment to precision manufacturing, innovation, and the development of a wide range of movements, including those with complications such as tourbillons.

The movements crafted by Peacock are known for their advanced technology, stability, and attention to detail. The brand has contributed to the development and promotion of "Chinese-made" movements, emphasizing the importance of domestically produced watch components.

If you have specific questions about Peacock movements or want to know more details about a particular type of movement, feel free to ask!

Wednesday, January 24, 2024

The Grand Master of Peacock Watches: Wu Zhirong

 

Wu Zhirong(武志荣), 67, retired from his position in mold manufacturing and processing at Liaoning Peacock Watch Industry Co., Ltd. 5 years ago. After being re-employed, Wu became the factory director of Liaoning Peacock Watch Tool Factory, and he said the responsibility is even heavier now.

Liaoning Dandong Peacock Watch Industry, where Wu Zhirong works, originated from Liaoning Peacock Watch Factory established in 1957. As one of the three major watch production bases in China, Liaoning Peacock Watch is a modern light industry enterprise specializing in watch R&D and manufacturing.

Since starting at the factory in 1978, Wu has witnessed the ups and downs of China's watch industry and the journey towards today's high-quality development. In the past 40 years, he has been dedicated to one thing: making better molds to help Chinese watch brands rise. He said every minute and second at work, he could hear the "sound" of "time" passing.

In 1975 at the age of 18, Wu Zhirong was sent to Yongdian Village in Kuaidian County, Dandong City as an educated youth. "The local people were extremely poor, with no electricity and not enough food." In 1978, Wu returned to the city and entered Liaoning Peacock Watch Factory, becoming a mold worker producing watch parts. "For me, this was an entirely new beginning."

Returning to the city, entering the factory, and becoming a technical worker were the dreams of many young people at that time. However, it was by no means easy to become a skilled worker with solid technical expertise. "The most important thing in making molds for watch parts is meticulous attention to detail. The tolerance is measured in micrometers, with one micrometer equal to one hundredth of a human hair." To meet his master's requirements, Wu would often stand at the process bench for three to four hours. Many people gave up due to the pressure. "I cherished the opportunity especially and did not dare to be negligent in the slightest."

Wu Zhirong武志荣

After half a year, Wu's master said he had the qualities rarely seen in a "mold maker". With his own efforts, Wu became the team leader managing 20 workers one year later, leading his workshop to be the "pillar" in the watch factory's mold department.

In 1978, the reform and opening up brought spring breeze across China. By the mid-1980s, the "Peacock" brand had become one of the "three major items" (watches, bicycles, sewing machines) most important to people's livelihoods across Northeast China and even the whole country. At this time, Liaoning Peacock Watch Industry, together with Shanghai and Tianjin's precision machinery enterprises, formed the three pillars of China's watch industry.

In 1990, Wu followed his master to travel to Longines Watch Company in Switzerland to learn advanced mold manufacturing technologies. "This is where I saw the gap between famous Chinese and international watch companies. But it strengthened my confidence that we could also make molds at their level." The trip to Switzerland not only broadened Wu's horizons but also clarified his future goals.

In the mid-1990s, the booming market economy was impacting the decades-long planned economy. In 1996, Peacock Watch Industry moved into semi-shutdown. "Most of the workers left, having to face the pressures of making a living. I didn't want to see the watch factory collapse," Wu said. Nearly 20 years of work made him reluctant to let go of the feelings in his heart. "Although the business was struggling, I persisted until 1998 when I had no choice but to leave to support my children's education."

Right after Wu's departure in 2000 came the watch company's restructuring. "Moving towards the new century, it felt like a completely new beginning. So I returned," Wu said. The two years away seemed very long for him.

Wu was excited and determined to come back, while also clearly feeling the pressure brought by the technological revolution. "This was by no means just going back to the old practices. In the past we produced according to state plans, but now our products need to cater to market demand - everything has changed," Wu said. At that time, the first product he developed was a popular sports watch on the market.

"Since we hadn't produced this kind of product before, we had to start the manufacturing process for the watch parts molds from scratch." In order to research the 8205 extra-thin watch movement mold, Wu led a 6-person team, poring over materials day after day at the process bench. Finally they researched out the movement mold for the product in one week, causing sensational "breaking news" in Liaoning Peacock Watch and the entire domestic watch industry.

From 2000 until today, Liaoning Peacock Watch has evolved from sports watches to tourbillon and dual-tourbillon watches, now having researched and produced seven major series with over one hundred varieties. Economic benefits continue rising, while behind each watch contains Wu Zhirong's painstaking efforts and sweat. "When your work gains recognition from the industry and more people, you feel gratified and joyful inside," Wu said. The reason he could hear the “sound” of “time” passing every minute and second is it constantly reminds him, “There are still more technical challenges, don’t waste time, don’t waste yourself.”

After over 40 years not wasting time and dedicating himself to one thing, in 2018 Wu Zhirong was selected in the first “Craftsmen of the Great Watch Power” award held by China Light Industry Council and China Textile and Apparel Council, a well-deserved honor.

Wu Zhirong武志荣
How many chances are there in life to strive for one's dream? "My daughter and wife persuade me to rest at home at this age, but when I think the company still needs me to lead the younger generation, I want to work a few more years. Our generation's dream is for Chinese watch brands to become world famous. If I try a little harder, the dream would be a little closer," Wu said. His reason for persisting in his work is simple - to contribute the last of his energy towards Chinese watches going international.

"How many chances are there in life to strive for one's dream? If not now, then when?" The words of famous Chinese ping pong player Rong Guotuan have always been Wu's motto at work. Wu said that even though he is advanced in age, as long as there are technical challenges, he is willing to try and overcome them.

After being re-employed in 2018, Wu took on a technical cooperation project with a foreign company. This required him to lead the technical team to produce a one-time forming mold for the movement of a certain brand's sports watch using the “captive bar” method within the shortest amount of time.

"At the time, some advised me to avoid risks and retreat since I had already retired, warning that failure could ruin my reputation built up in the industry over many years." However, I believe life is only a few decades long. If not daring to strive at this moment, there may never be such a chance again in the future. "This was not only a good opportunity for technical cooperation but also a test of ‘Peacock’ technology by the foreign partner. If we didn't manage to get over this hurdle, we wouldn't be able to establish ‘Peacock's’ technology," Wu said.

With his perseverant character, Wu led the technical team. After nearly two months of painstaking research, they finally overcame this technical difficulty, winning an opportunity and honor for the company. One-time forming had been the dream of generations in the watch company, now realized in Wu’s hands as he broke the conventional method of copying the Soviet Union for mold manufacturing. The Swiss experts couldn’t help repeatedly praising when comparing the captive bar with the sample.

“Time will prove the quality of timepieces.” This is a saying deeply understood by Peacock’s people. Wu believes in the power of “time”. He can always hear the “sound” of “time” passing.

Tuesday, January 23, 2024

Peacock Watch Climber

 

Today, I review the Peacock Climber Tourbillon — an entirely Chinese-made mechanical watch from a watchmaker who most timepiece enthusiasts outside of China or nearby countries probably haven’t heard about. Years ago, when I first visited the Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair, I recall spending time at the Peacock booth and marveling at the variety of high- and low-end watches the company produced. A lot of their historic production seemed to be for other companies, but an assortment of Peacock-branded products seemed to be out there for people who could muster how to get one of these watches. Now, Peacock watches are apparently becoming slightly more available, and today, I review a relatively affordable and halfway decent Chinese-made mechanical tourbillon watch with a sporty demeanor.

Chinese tourbillons are not all created equal. For years now, aBlogtoWatch has dedicated space from time to time to reviewing Chinese tourbillon-based timepieces as a sort of check against what the Swiss are up to. I don’t think even the best Chinese watchmakers will argue that their tourbillons are better than those produced by the Swiss, but they get pretty close for a real fraction of the cost. Chinese tourbillons have gotten better and better as the desire to keep improving and honing in on “Swiss style” keeps Sino-horologists busy at their benches. When I say “better,” I mean three things. First, the tourbillons themselves look better, with nicer parts and better finishing. Second, the tourbillon-based movements perform better, with more accuracy and reliability over time. Third, the tourbillons last longer with movements that need servicing less often and are built with more durability in mind.

If you are familiar with legacy Chinese tourbillon watches, I think you’ll be pleasantly impressed with the quality of the caliber SL5215D automatic Peacock movement inside of this Climber Tourbillon watch. For one thing, the tourbillon itself is produced from far better parts that are crisper, smaller, and better finished. Thus, the actual visual look and feel of the tourbillon is more impressive and feels closer to European tourbillons. Another good thing is that the hour and minute hands are actually in the center of the dial. Some legacy Chinese tourbillon movements were designed so that the hour and minute hands are actually just above the center of the dial, which made for odd-feeling, slightly asymmetric dials. The movement also includes a power reserve indicator, which is a welcome complication and uncommon to find in Chinese automatic tourbillon-based movements.

The SL5215D movement can wind with both the automatic rotor and manually turning the crown. I believe it operates at 3Hz with a power reserve of 45 hours. The movement itself is rather large, and the architecture seems to be somewhat inspired by IWC movements (the design of the automatic rotor, for example). The same thing goes for the Peacock Climber Tourbillon case, which is visually similar to one of the late-generation IWC Ingenieur models. I wanted to review this watch mainly because of its sporty looks and sophisticated movement, but I’ve also come to enjoy its wrist presence, even if the overall composition is on the larger size.

The Peacock Climber’s steel case is 45mm-wide and 13.5mm-thick. The lug-to-lug distance is about 57mm long, and the case is water-resistant to 50 meters without a screw-down crown (adding one would have been nice, I think). Over the dial and caseback are flat sapphire crystals. Overall, the Peacock Climber Tourbillon is a larger timepiece, but it can be worn snugly with the supplied silicone strap. The case requires a specially fitted strap, which can limit your strap options if you want to venture out beyond the stock strap Peacock supplies. My suspicion, however, is that if you reach out to Peacock they can recommend (or offer) alternative straps that fit the Climber case.

The watch dial itself is on the more legible side and tries to combine the feeling of a high-end sports lifestyle watch with a “technical dial” that shows off parts of the movement. The hands and hour markers are painted with luminant and the hands themselves are prominent enough to be easily readable from a few feet away. While the overall design is very nice, it isn’t quite as refined as that from an old-world Swiss horological maison, and the finishing on the individual components isn’t going to quite match watches costing several times the price. That is understandable, of course, because a watch like this is decidedly about the strong value proposition, so it would be unreasonable to think Peacock could match a Patek at a fraction of the price. For the money, I think there is a lot of timepiece in this product. One final thing to mention about my experience with the Peacock Climber Tourbillon is that the movement remained relatively accurate. One often expects Chinese-made tourbillon watches to not be paragons of accuracy. This was a different experience, and when I would compare the time on the Peacock watches with a digital clock in my home for a few days in a row, I was impressed with how reliable the Peacock tourbillon was by comparison.

Peacock currently offers the Climber in four different color variations, including this reference P509-8 in green, along with a Peacock Climber in blue with a black-coated steel case, brown and natural steel, and black with a black-coated steel case. I felt that the deep green would match the mountain climber spirit of the watch and also be trendy given that green is still very much a popular color (alongside blue), these days.  While not everyone here in the U.S. will immediately like the Peacock brand name (though it is fitting given why men often enjoy luxury watches), the company is certainly not new and does a pretty decent job of producing Western-friendly mechanical timepieces for enthusiasts at fairer prices.

Peacock Watch Plume Monarch

 The king of hundreds of birds, the peacock embodies elegance and nobility. Inheriting its regal plume imagery, Peacock Watches specially created an 18K rose gold dual tourbillon Plume Monarch at 5 and 7 o'clock positions, achieving perfect balance and symmetry. With exceptional watchmaking techniques integrated with the profound traditional culture, this epitomizes the power and style of a true king.



Peacock Watches originated from 1957 in Dandong, an eastern city acclaimed as the “The Orient's Geneva”. Since inception, excellence in design and craft has always been the core pursuit of Peacock Watches, continuously leading the innovation and development of China’s high-end timepiece manufacturing.

The movement is to a watch what an engine is to a car - the heart and soul. After over 67 years of dedicated research, Peacock Watches have independently developed and manufactured over 300 high-end movements, rightfully establishing itself as an industry leader. From initial conception, drafting, to production of every minute component, repeated trials, testing and adjustment, to final assembly...Peacock Watches have achieved superior precision in every step of movement manufacturing.



Peacock Watch is one of the very few Chinese brands that have truly realized complete self-reliance in movement development. It is also among the very few in the world that integrates over 160 techniques to achieve independent high-end timepiece manufacturing.

As one of the three most revered “Grand Complications”, the tourbillon utilizes the precision adjustment mechanism and balance wheel to offset gravitational effects in different orientations, ensuring excellent timekeeping. As an extremely precise and complex device, the tourbillon is recognized as the ultimate embodiment of fine craftsmanship that only tremendously skilled and dedicated master watchmakers can accomplish. Peacock has commanded this pinnacle technology since 2002. This dual tourbillon watch with symmetric placement at 5 and 7 o’clock is the only one made in China.



Previous Chinese dual tourbillons were designed at 6 and 9 o’clock. A 5 and 7 o'clock dual tourbillon that represents people's aspirations for perfection and pays tribute to the traditional Chinese aesthetic for symmetry has been an extremely difficult feat. After years of dedicated research, Peacock watchmakers have broken through technical barriers at the 5 and 7 o’clock axes. The ingenious semi-skeletonized co-axial dual tourbillon, equipped with two completely independent precision adjustment systems, ensures both dynamic beauty and steady accurate timing – an extraordinary achievement of superlative craftsmanship and intricate design complexity.

This co-axial dual tourbillon watch consists of over 230 delicate parts and has full independent intellectual property rights. Peacock is the only brand in China capable of independently developing and producing such a 5 and 7 o'clock dual tourbillon.



It represents a genuine model for Peacock’s utmost excellence in technique. The integration of high-precision tourbillons and outstanding artisanship strikes a perfect balance between performance and eternal beauty. At the dial center, an elegant 18K rose gold feather arrow is vertically embedded. The remarkably well-proportioned movement sits splendidly at 5 and 7 o'clock, paying tribute to Chinese aesthetic symmetry with exceptional ingenuity. The unique feather-shaped hands enable precise reading, while the completely skeletonized crystal and caseback provide an unobstructed view of the dual tourbillon's exquisite design and extraordinary craftsmanship. Made of textured black rubber strap and interspersed with crown and lugs sculpted like a peacock, this oozes luxury and power.

Peacock Watch Black Hole

   Groundbreaking Chinese Watch! Five-day Central Tourbillon with Power Reserve. The significance of the Black Hole lies in: it was independently developed by Peacock Watch, the first Chinese five-day power reserve central tourbillon.

Peacock Black Hole Central Tourbillon Watch

Behind this Black Hole watch is over 20 years of profound heritage accumulated by Peacock in tourbillon technology. Divided by color, the Black Hole watch comes in black, blue and green, all priced at $3,750.

Peacock Black Hole Central Tourbillon Watch
Its design draws inspiration from one of the most mysterious and powerful celestial bodies in the universe - black holes. Black holes represent the final evolutionary stage of stars. Their gravitational force and density are immense, capable of swallowing all surrounding matter and distorting spacetime. Another special trait of black holes is they cannot be directly observed, yet objectively exist.
Peacock Black Hole Central Tourbillon Watch
Because black holes are so mysterious and cannot be directly observed, for a long time no one knew what they looked like, until the first black hole image in 2019.
Peacock Black Hole Central Tourbillon Watch
Black holes have a unique shape and mysterious power. The Black Hole watch inspired by them signifies a new milestone for Peacock in appearance design and movement research and development.

It is a watch brimming with creativity, sci-fi texture and precise mechanical flavor. It adopts a domed sapphire crystal and caseless design. The central tourbillon at the dial's heart represents the watch's soul.

Peacock Black Hole Central Tourbillon Watch

Mechanical watches have three major complicated functions - tourbillon, minute repeater and perpetual calendar. Among them, the tourbillon is best known. It was invented by Swiss watchmaking master Breguet in 1795, in order to offset the negative effects of gravity on the timing of pocket watches.

The tourbillon mechanism places the precision adjusting device inside a rotating frame, which does a complete 360-degree rotation around the balance wheel axis. Through this method, positional differences between components can offset one another, improving accuracy.

Breguet invented the tourbillon for accuracy, while today’s tourbillons focus on aesthetics. They showcase the dynamic beauty and artistry of mechanical watches.

Technically, the central tourbillon has far greater difficulty than the traditional 6 o’clock tourbillon. Swiss brands price central tourbillons much higher than traditional ones.
Peacock Black Hole Central Tourbillon Watch
The Black Hole's co-axial central tourbillon has the rotating frame and balance wheel rotating along the same axis. Compared to offset tourbillons, co-axial ones offer relatively better timekeeping.

The tourbillon bridge acts as a small seconds hand, indicating seconds as it turns with the rotating frame.

Mechanical watch power comes from the mainspring barrel. The number of barrels correlates closely with power duration.

Because the tourbillon mechanism is power-hungry, to achieve 5 days of power reserve, the Black Hole watch specially utilizes 4 series-coupled barrels distributed symmetrically in the same plane.
Peacock Black Hole Central Tourbillon Watch
The 4 series-coupled barrels is a China first, remarkably challenging technically. Through persistent effort, Peacock overcame difficulties, obtained patents for both this as well as central tourbillon technologies.

Besides the 4 barrels, the titanium alloy rotating frame is also vital for power endurance.

Heavier tourbillon frames demand greater energy, resulting in shorter power reserves.

Titanium’s biggest advantage is its light weight. Using it lowers the frame’s mass, extending the power reserve.

However, titanium alloy’s processing difficulty and cost run high. Peacock took up the challenge, successfully producing a 0.46g ultra-light titanium frame. Along with the 4 barrels, this ensures 5 days of power.

Inspired by black hole gravity, scattered minute markers form left-right symmetry on the dial with ultra-thinness (0.3mm) and skeletonization with chamfering, reflective of top workmanship domestically.

The tips of hour and minute hands are engraved with Swiss Super-LumiNova to report time accurately even in darkness.
Peacock Black Hole Central Tourbillon Watch
The exterior flange displays delicate radial patterns, while the interior bezel is decorated in mottled star nebula forged carbon.

Equally exquisite, the star nebula forged carbon integrates luminescent particles into carbon fiber under 2400°C and 7500N/cm2 pressure, resulting in alluring unique textures resembling cosmic dark matter.

The Black Hole makes particular material selections, surprisingly adopting top-grade 904L stainless steel for the case.

Most watches use 316L steel, with only a handful of elite Swiss brands like Rolex adopting premium 904L steel.
Peacock Black Hole Central Tourbillon Watch
Far exceeding 316L steel in cost, 904L steel also offers superior corrosion resistance as the “noble” grade among stainless steel. This is my first time seeing a domestic watch brand use such high-end material.

The Black Hole is equipped with Peacock’s self-produced SL-5711P manual-winding tourbillon movement, consisting of 196 parts in a 5mm thickness.

Peacock Black Hole Central Tourbillon Watch

The bridge features circular Geneva stripes that embody high-end mechanical movements.

The tourbillon represents Peacock’s core product. By combining central tourbillon with 5-day power reserve, the Black Hole showcases Peacock’s formidable technical prowess while breaking new domestic tourbillon heights.

Peacock Black Hole Central Tourbillon Watch Description:

In the universe, the concepts of time and space are redefined. And black holes are one of the most mysterious existences. Drawing inspiration from the unique shape and mysterious power of black holes, while also commemorating the great feat of human validating the existence of black holes through the 2019 imaging, after Einstein predicted their existence in his general theory of relativity, Peacock originally created the central tourbillon wristwatch, incorporating the profound universe into the wrist, and appreciating the fusion and evolution of time and space through precise dimensions.

The minute hand originates from the "external gravitational field" of black holes, which has a spherical symmetrical distribution and extends bilaterally. The tip is filled with Swiss Super-LumiNova for easy reading even in darkness. The inner ring of the dial uses luminescent forged carbon. This high-tech material has undergone repeated testing, compressing resin and luminescent materials. The elegance of carbon fiber combines with the scattering properties of luminescent particles. The texture formed after shaping is unique in the world, resembling cosmic nebulae, with a deep and subtle beauty. The movement is completely skeletonized with a see-through perspective, showing hand-polished vortex textures in a sunken effect. Above it, the staggered jeweled bearings are like cosmic planets drawn into the black hole, presenting aesthetic artistry.


 Every year, March and April mark the period when major watch brands unveil their new creations for the first half of the year. Compared to ...